- DRY-FOOD: I free-feed the dry food for my cats and kittens, which the kittens begin eating
around 4 weeks of age. My favorite dry food is Life's Abundance Pet food which the cats and kittens love and you can order it to be shipped directly to your door. The link is Life's Abundance Pet Food. I use both the regular and Grain free food. Either is fine, preference on grain free. This food is shipped fresh from their own manufacturing plant, so they have the best quality control you can ask for! If you continue to use this food, I also extend their health guarantees!
- CANNED FOOD: Cats and kittens also get canned cat food in the morning and evening.
I recommend ordering your cat/kitten food from Life's Abundance Pet Foods. I also feed the Life's Abundance Treats and Supplements. I use other canned foods as well so they will be adjusted to other foods when they go to their new homes but try to get the best available food. Kittens get wet food 3 times a day. As they mature, I go to 2 times a day. Wet food is ideal for the cats to digest, so the more the merrier.
- RAW MEAT: I feed my cats raw meats as well, in lieu of one of the canned food feedings.
They get ground beef, turkey or chicken (although chicken is their least favorite), or beef stew meat (great for cleaning teeth) that you can find in the grocery store.
I buy all natural/organic meat products.
I also use organ meats such as chicken hearts, gizzards, and beef heart.
You can mix the raw meat with an egg, plain yogart, or some cottage
cheese. If you live near a specialty pet food store, you can buy the
raw meats already prepared for you which contain vegetables as well.
I use Blue Ridge Pet Foods; they love the Kitten Mix, Puppy Mix, beef and bone, venison and ground quail. The cats do not like Aunt
Jeni's frozen foods, so don't waste your money on it.
- Additions to foods: I add a powder
supplements to their wet food, once a day. I like Only Natural Pet's Ultimate Cat Vitamins. A great prebiotic to add to their food is called Pawbiotics. It is human grade. Another great product is Total-Zymes and Total Biotics. Another excellent vitamin/biotic/enzyme product is Natures Logic All Food Fortifier. I HIGHLY recommend adding enzymes and pre- and probiotics to your pets food daily! Make sure they are guaranteed live. This helps to keep the gut healthy and prevents illness.
- Keep all household plants out of the kitten's reach. Some houseplants
such as ivy and philodendron are poisonous and can cause vomiting, diarrhea,
or even death.
- Avoid toys that have sharp edges or parts that your kitten might swallow.
- Beware of sewing thread, yarn and toys with strings. Stringy material
is dangerous if ingested.
- Keep all medicines and household cleaning agents locked up. Clean
your house with clorox or vinegar. Many household cleansers are harmful
to cats and are irritating to breathe. Don't use carpet deodarizers,
powders, etc. Remember, the cats are closer to the floors and the chemical
smells can be overwhelming to them.
- Never use Lysol spray around your pets! Only use natural products!
- Shut the bathroom door when running water in a bathtub and keep toilet
seats closed. Do not leave buckets of water around for the kitten to
- Secure unscreened windows and secure screens on all other windows.
There are sceens that are made for pets now that you can buy at your
local hardware store. These screens are stronger and cannot be clawed
- Close all garage and appliance doors. Check before you leave the house
to make sure the kitten can't escape out the door.
- Keep doors closed to any unfinished room in your house or basement
to keep the kitten from getting into the ceiling or the walls.
- I recommend high quality hepa filters for use in your house to keep the air clean.
- Here's a great video on Handy Tips for Cleaning Pet Hair from your furniture or clothes: http://www.reshareworthy.com/cleaning-up-pet-hair/
- I recommend one litter box per cat.
- I prefer the large, deep, covered boxes as it helps to keep the litter inside
the box. A plastic storage tub is also sufficent and helps to keep the litter inside the tub. Make sure you don't use too large of a tub as it will be more of a problem when trying to clean it. If you have dogs, try the Clevercat tubs with the lid on it.
- The most natural, environmentally healthy brand of litter that I like is called
Swheat Scoop. It is made out of wheat and is clumping. It can be flushed
and dosn't contain clay or chemicals. I also use other clumping litters
as well. Any brand is good, the better the quality, the better the clumping
ability and less dust. I prefer non-scented... who wants their house to smell
like fresh cat litter? Dr. Easley's Classic or Ultra clumping are non-scented and work well. If you can't find a non-scented product, get Scoop Away, which is a great litter, although scented and can be found at Walmart and other grocery stores. DO NOT USE PINE LITTER. It will not cover the poop and can stain white fur.
- Scoop the litter at least one time a day, preferrably two times a
day. I use the Jumbo size plastic litter scoop. I've found them at www.chewy.com. I buy either the Petmate Giant Scooper or the Van Ness Pureness Extra Giant Long Handle.
- If using scoopable, replace litter with fresh litter as it deplenishes.
Every few weeks, dump the entire box, wash with water and clorox or vinegar(1:8),
dry, then refill with about 3 inches of fresh litter. You can also spray
your litter box with a spray-on cooking oil, such as Pam. This helps
to prevent the litter from sticking to the bottom of the pan and makes
cleanup much easier.
- I use a tracking mat in front of my boxes to keep the litter from
getting tracked onto the carpet.
- Upon arrival to their new home, show the kitten where his litter box
is by placing him inside the box and petting him.
- Put the litter box where the kitten can get to it. If you have a multiple
level house, you might consider putting a litter box on each level until
the kitten gets older. This will ensure that he can get to the box when
he needs to go.
- Comb your cat regularly to minimize matting and hairballs, control
excessive shedding, and minimize the need for bathing. I use a stainless
steel comb. Pay attention to the cats mane, ruff, and hair under the
arms and on the back of their legs. I like to use a stainless steel comb and for mats, a rake style comb that has rotating teeth.
- To break apart mats, you can get a seam ripper or an envelop opener that has the small razor in it.
- Clip their claws every 2 weeks using nail clippers. To get the kitten
used to having their claws clipped, try clipping a few claws at a time.
Handle the kittens paws frequently so they are used to the feel. As
you pet your kitten, pet down their legs and paws too to help them get
used to having their paws handled.
- If the coat of your cat starts to clump or look oily, you should give
him a bath. Start with a degreaser shampoo. Life's Abundance (www.mypetfoodonline.com) has a great all-around pet shampoo. Purrinlot has two wonderful shampoos that are wonderful and smell fabulous! One is a degreaser, the other is a nice conditioning shampoo. Use the degreaser if your cats has a greasy coat. Chubbs Bars also has a nice degreaser bar (the original unscented bar) of soap for your cat. Lather the cat up with the shampoo or bar of soap and then rinse, rinse, and keep on rinsing!
Be sure to keep your bathroom warm so the cat doesn't get chilled. Check out the link to Purrinlot below. They have a great grooming video on their website!
|VETERINARIAN and VACCINATIONS:
- Visit your veterinarian within 2 days after receipt of your new kitten.
- Give your veterinarian the medical information that I have provided
you in your Kitten Folder so he can advise you as to when the boosters
are due. I recommend a final booster distemper vaccination at 4 or 5 months of age to assure
their immune system gets the coverage they need. Often their mothers
immunities are still in the kittens system for several months. Giving
them a booster at 4 to 5 months helps to protect the kitten after the
mothers immunities are gone. Give one additional distemper vaccine at 1 year of age. After that, their immune system is sufficient and should not need additional vaccinations. I recommend doing a titer test to determine if the cat needs additional vaccinations.
- Only use non-adjuvanted vaccines! Ask your vet about the health risks and side affects associated with all vaccines! Using adjuvanted vaccines will void your health guarantee!
- A rabies vaccine is due by the time they are 4 months old. I prefer
the PureVax Rabies vaccine since it is safer than the other brands of
- My cattery cats are tested for Feline Leukemia and Feline Aids. Do
NOT give your kitten the Leukemia or FIP vaccines. They are not necessary
since the kittens are to be kept strickly indoors and these vaccines
have long-term side effects that are determental to the cats' health. This will void your health guarantee!
- Set up an appointment to have the kitten spayed/neutered by the time
s/he is 6 months old. Send the spay/neuter certificate that you received from your vet to Reigningcats. Scan and email is the best. Snail mail to: 2800 N 6th St. #5015, St. Augustine, FL 32084.
- Please be educated at what your Veterinarian is suggesting for treatment of your pet!!! Always ask why before jumping into expensive tests and procedures. Get a 2nd opinion if the procedure is questioned or too expensive! I do not recommend the food or suppliments that the Vet sells.
- Use positive reinforcement (praise, treats and toys) for good behavior.
- Squirt you kitten with a water bottle when he misbehaves, then look
away so he associates the water with bad behavior and not with you.
- Show your kitten how to sharpen his claws on a scratching post. Give
praise when she uses the post. Use treats on the post as positive reinforcement.
- Play with the kitten around the scratching post so he associates the
fun times with the scratching post.
- Place the scratching post in an area the kitten will walk by, preferably
in front of the corner of the furniture. This will teach the kitten
to use the post, not the furniture. I recommend the cardboard-style
box scratchers, they are inexpensive and you can buy several to place
around your house. As the kitten gets older, he will also be attracted
to the catnip that comes in the box. Carpeted scratching posts only
encourages and trains your cat to use carpet.... be sure this is what
you want before purchasing a carpeted scrathing post.
- Use spray-on Catnip for vertical scratching
- Do not use your fingers as a toy. This will train the kitten to bite
you and you want to avoid this. Instead, use a fishing-pole style toy,
some balls, or a wadded up piece of paper to play with the kitten.